What oil are you guys running?
I've always had good luck with Castrol GTX 10W-30, and will probably continue to use it for all of my vehicles. Anyone else have a favorite brand?
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Mobile 1.
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You are suppose to use 5w-20 in the new 05/06 Mustangs.
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Looks like all the new motors are being built with tight bearing clearances and need a lighter viscosity oil ..
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Originally Posted by Brains
Looks like all the new motors are being built with tight bearing clearances and need a lighter viscosity oil ..
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Whatever's on sale! (years of driving a Honda does that to you)
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Mobil 1 EP in anything that I care about. K&N oil filter as well.
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valvoline 5w30 full synthetic in the mustang, and valvoline maxlife 10w30 in the ranger.(can you tell i sell valvoline at my store, lol)
and most companies are beginning to switch back from 5w20 to 5w30 now, dont know why, but its only been a couple years that 5w20s been widely used and i guess maybe they are beginning to see problems already, most hondas are back to 5w30s and some fords. id stick with 5w30 personally. |
Love my Mobil 1 Synthetic.
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Im a strong advocate for M1, but have been thinking about making a change to something else. My rule of thumb for the smurf is to use 1qt for every thousand RPM I spin. (shift at 6500, so I run 6.5quarts)
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Motorcraft 5w20. I ran M1 in my '01.
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Originally Posted by DONAIMIAN
Im a strong advocate for M1, but have been thinking about making a change to something else. My rule of thumb for the smurf is to use 1qt for every thousand RPM I spin. (shift at 6500, so I run 6.5quarts)
you joking? that car(ls1 trans am 5.7L) calls for about 5.5qts in that motor.....aftermarket oil pan or anything? i dont know if throwing a full extra quart in there is going to be a good idea. if thats the rule of thumb does a honda s2000 take 9 qts in its little 4 banger? |
I run a full 6 quarts in my LS1's, but I run a deeper filter on the Formula.
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You can run 5w30 in the Mustang.
I use Royal Purple. |
AMSOIL is my choice. The European Formula 5w~40 to be exact.
The 5w-40 European motor oil is supposed to last 25,000 miles and retails for $6.85 per quart, $81.00 for a case of 12. Compare that to the cost of replacing Mobil, Castrol at the recommended drain intervals and the AMSOIL comes out on top with value not to mention wear resistance and breakdown. All you would have to do is change the filter @ 7k miles and rock on for another 7k. Then change the oil even though it's still got 10,000 miles left on it. They also have some abuse tests in this brochure that shows the results between AMSOIL, Mobil, Royal Purple, Castrol. I know they did the tests, but the figures are "overwhelming" in favor of AMSOIL __________________ |
Originally Posted by DONAIMIAN
Im a strong advocate for M1, but have been thinking about making a change to something else. My rule of thumb for the smurf is to use 1qt for every thousand RPM I spin. (shift at 6500, so I run 6.5quarts)
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Actually, running low oil on an LS1 is a recipe for disaster. Even 1.5 qts low with a hard launch is enough to uncover the pickup and see 0psi on the gauge. :eek2: You gotta keep those suckers full of oil. They have a nice windage tray on them though, and the sump is big enough to keep the oil off the crank, even a bit overfilled.
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How nice can the windage tray be if you can uncover the pickup that easily?
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Mobil 1 5w20
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Royal Purple here.
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You need to look inside an LS1 Camaro pan, you'll see how it can happen. The tray is tight to the crank where you'd expect it. The sump of the pan is pretty far down from there, and there's a windowed baffle about half way between the bottom of the sump and the tray. Total distance is like 3-4 inches. The problem really shows up because the pickup tube is forward in the sump, and below the baffle (obviously). Couple that with these motors tendency to push a bunch of oil to the top, add in some G force to push that oil against the back of the sump and you can uncover the pickup.
Soo, you just keep a bunch of oil in it so there's plenty to go around, because you'll still never get it close to the crank. I put a return drain from the turbo into the pan right above the baffle, and oil won't even drain from there with 6 quarts in the motor -- and that point is still a good inch or more to the bottom of the windage tray. |
High dollar Valvoline 10w-30 dino oil
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I used Redline for years...but in the last couple of years, I switched to Mobil 1.
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Originally Posted by BWH2003
Mobil 1 5w20
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motorcraft 5w 20
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Originally Posted by 03CobraMike
same...
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Originally Posted by BWH2003
LOL I know....BTW did you ever check to see if yours smells like gas?
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well shit....I need to figure out whats broken and quick. The whole my oil smells like gas thing is not cool.
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Mobil 1 10W30 full synthetic(4qts)+ synthetic lucas(1qt) with mobil 1 filter in the mustang
Castrol Syntec 10W30 with penzoil filter in the wrx why? I dont know. Its just what works good. |
Mobil 1 5w30
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motorcraft 5w 30 here
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Mobil 1 synthetic :drive:
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Originally Posted by BWH2003
well shit....I need to figure out whats broken and quick. The whole my oil smells like gas thing is not cool.
not saying it is even remotly your problem,.. but my oil smelled of gas when I bent a valve... valve seals maybe? |
Nothing but 15W-40 Shell rotella T here. Keith Craft recommends 20-50 oil in every one of their crate motors, i have a 302 crate, but not from them, anyways, dont give me the junk about bearing clearances *rolls eyes* this still dropped my temp guage half a line and cut lifter noise (that sewing machine sound all high lift cams tend to make) in half compared to 10-30 M1 synthetic. Saw several UAO's, one of them on a LS2 GTO where the guy ran M1 and then Rotella T and cut his wear metals IN HALF. I ran this stuff in my 170K mile Trans Am (LT1) when I had it and had to change oil ever 500 miles for 2500 miles b/c the previous owner used castroil GTX and had shitted the motor up with it. GOO poured out of the filter....
I use 5 qts with a WIX filter. The reason for the Rotella T is b/c my dad used to escort oversize loads, he used old cop cars for his pilot cars. He did this from 197X until the late 90's. He experimented with a ton of oils and formed 2 opinions (he tore each motor down when he retired it) #1, quakerstate SUCKS! and is VERY messy. #2, Shell Rotella was VERY VERY clean compared to any other oil he tried. (He used to be an amsoil dealer, so he played with it im pretty sure, just on a side note). The reason i went to a 15-40 in the 5.0 is b/c i was losing 1 qt per 1500 miles, well, doesnt matter WHAT oil i use, i still use 1 qt per 1500. My compression is 147-155, i plugged the PCV and felt over the open oil filler neck with engine running and BARELY felt the slightest hint of a warm draft, so no blowby to speak of, and the plugs are VERY CLEAN (except for some powery soot that all plugs get from burning fuel). Called ford, told them EVERYTHING about it, they said my forged pistons will cause that, 1 qt per 1-2,000 miles is normal for forged pistons, googled it, and apparently a LOT of people find forged pistons use more oil due to being made a bit looser. Nature of the beast i guess. |
My oil had a little bit of a gassy smell when my fuel pressure was set a tad high. Nothing bad and no oil level rising or anything, but a LITTLE gassy smell is normal, just not too much, and the oil better still feel slick, or its NOT a good thing...
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Another vote for Castrol GTX
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IM running Castrol for the break in period of my engine, then switching to royal purple or amsoil.
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Originally Posted by SJRTX
Mobile 1.
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Originally Posted by BWH2003
well shit....I need to figure out whats broken and quick. The whole my oil smells like gas thing is not cool.
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I use Mobil 1 full syn in my truck but I just put Motorcraft 5w20 blend in the mustang since it was pretty cheap.
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