Gear info
04-17-2006, 11:09 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by Larry
Gear selection should be based on rpm vs. peak hp at the lights. You want to gear your car so you are 200-400 rpm above peak hp at the finish line for max et. You can't say a 4.10 or 3.73 or any gear is best until this criteria is met.
04-17-2006, 01:09 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by blackfang
Also a change of tire can affect what rpm and peak hp is at when you cross the traps. Also not every person drag races their cars, but surely wants more bang for their buck. So should we not recommend a gear swap until they drag race and do the research on where there peak hp is and at what rpm?
You can waste a lot of money guessing the gear to install if you are wanting maximum acceleration. Even when you know peak hp, max rpm, tire diameter, future mods, projected mph, etc. you can calculate the wrong gear. You will get closer to optimiun though. But those are minimum things you should know before selecting a gear to make a reasonable selection. Even after you've made passes at the track you must know peak hp. That's only attainable from the manufacturer or dyno testing.
The info I orginally gave was the end result you are trying to achieve for maximum acceleration. Not the way to get there.
04-17-2006, 02:16 PM
#13
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That is what I am saying, if I want more ump from the car, then gears is a great route. However for your average person or the novice drag racver that goes maybe once every few months trying to figure out peak hp@ what rpm isn't the best and most feasible route because it may take 10+ trips down the 1320 to drive the car right to even get that data.
Actually the aftermarket gears will not do any more damage to the engine than stockers. It has been debated and proven. This is why...Load is based on air flow.It flows the same level of air at each rpm no matter what gear is in it.Gearing just gets you thru the rpm band faster.If anything its less stress on the rotating assembly because its not lugging. MPG has also been proven to be increased as well because 4th and 5th gears are more usable. Some have even done their own testing and gotten almost 26 mpg with 4.10's.
Actually the aftermarket gears will not do any more damage to the engine than stockers. It has been debated and proven. This is why...Load is based on air flow.It flows the same level of air at each rpm no matter what gear is in it.Gearing just gets you thru the rpm band faster.If anything its less stress on the rotating assembly because its not lugging. MPG has also been proven to be increased as well because 4th and 5th gears are more usable. Some have even done their own testing and gotten almost 26 mpg with 4.10's.
04-17-2006, 02:42 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by blackfang
That is what I am saying, if I want more ump from the car, then gears is a great route. However for your average person or the novice drag racver that goes maybe once every few months trying to figure out peak hp@ what rpm isn't the best and most feasible route because it may take 10+ trips down the 1320 to drive the car right to even get that data.
Actually the aftermarket gears will not do any more damage to the engine than stockers. It has been debated and proven. This is why...Load is based on air flow.It flows the same level of air at each rpm no matter what gear is in it.Gearing just gets you thru the rpm band faster.If anything its less stress on the rotating assembly because its not lugging. MPG has also been proven to be increased as well because 4th and 5th gears are more usable. Some have even done their own testing and gotten almost 26 mpg with 4.10's.
Actually the aftermarket gears will not do any more damage to the engine than stockers. It has been debated and proven. This is why...Load is based on air flow.It flows the same level of air at each rpm no matter what gear is in it.Gearing just gets you thru the rpm band faster.If anything its less stress on the rotating assembly because its not lugging. MPG has also been proven to be increased as well because 4th and 5th gears are more usable. Some have even done their own testing and gotten almost 26 mpg with 4.10's.
Didn't say anything about damage to the engine from gears. I said longevity! Your engine will turn more rpm with lower gearing and over time will produce more wear. Did not address the issue of mpg. That's another issue. Aren't we talking acceleration? But yes, if properly selected, gearing will improve mpg too. The factory has done a pretty good job in that area though under average driving conditions.
04-17-2006, 03:00 PM
#15
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MPG debate-
Again that is incorrect on the gears and engine longevity. I have had this same debate elsewhere and Tim barth who owns and runs Modular PowerHouse even stated that a steeper gear in no way will cause an engine to not last as long compared to the stockers. The gears will not affect the load on the engine.
I am done with the thread, I gave advice and info proven by one of the top notch and best modular engine builder out there. 
Originally Posted by Larry
The factory gears will give best mpg and engine longevity. Best bang then is to keep it stock.
Originally Posted by Tim@MPH
Load is based on air flow.It flows the same level of air at each rpm no matter what gear is in it.Gearing just gets you thru the rpm band faster.If anything its less stress on the rotating assembly because its not lugging.
Imho 3.73 gears minimum on a blower car and 4.10's if your not a ***** to be blunt.
I have 2v's on stock internals making 440-460rwhp an running low 11's.These cars have been running for over 2 yrs with no problems.One of the 420rwhp cars runs 4.10's and is always a 11.1-11.3 1/4 mile car.He runs it every weekend and has for 2 yrs.
I have tuned over 700 4.6's with blowers.ALL of them are still running and 30% have 4.10's and the rest range from stock to 3.73's.All the 420-460rwhp cars on stock longblocks run no less than 3.73's with a few running 4.10's.
The lovely thing about the internet is everyone is an expert.I do this every single day and know the facts.You will never convince everyone your opinion is right.My advise is listen to the top shops and avoid the keyboard jockeys who have no proof,facts or hard data to back up thier claim.
DONOT fear the gear. 4.10-4.30's are the best additon to any N/A car.My Mach 1 runs 11.8's all motor and has 4.30's out back.60k miles as a daily driver and it still runs like a champ
Imho 3.73 gears minimum on a blower car and 4.10's if your not a ***** to be blunt.
I have 2v's on stock internals making 440-460rwhp an running low 11's.These cars have been running for over 2 yrs with no problems.One of the 420rwhp cars runs 4.10's and is always a 11.1-11.3 1/4 mile car.He runs it every weekend and has for 2 yrs.
I have tuned over 700 4.6's with blowers.ALL of them are still running and 30% have 4.10's and the rest range from stock to 3.73's.All the 420-460rwhp cars on stock longblocks run no less than 3.73's with a few running 4.10's.
The lovely thing about the internet is everyone is an expert.I do this every single day and know the facts.You will never convince everyone your opinion is right.My advise is listen to the top shops and avoid the keyboard jockeys who have no proof,facts or hard data to back up thier claim.
DONOT fear the gear. 4.10-4.30's are the best additon to any N/A car.My Mach 1 runs 11.8's all motor and has 4.30's out back.60k miles as a daily driver and it still runs like a champ
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