back brakes
 

I am gonna replace the back brakes, and wondering what they should mic. out at. Isnt there a mark on them that says the limits? I know that I want to buy new rotors but cant afford them seeing I owe the I.r.s $4000. :turd:
Any way trying to get away with it for a bit so any ideas on good pads for cheap as well? Thinking raybestos semi-metalic.

the rotors are probably so rusted you wont be able to tell. either buy new rotors or get a light cut on those(rotors may be cheaper or the same cost as getting them machined) to prevent vibration or squeek from the rust grooves and areas

I have auto zone rotors and pads in the back, no dust, no squeak, no rattle. The front brakes are where you shouldn't go cheap. I have a set of Mach 1 calipers and slotted rotors in the front with OEM pads.

Cool I know the backs are not that important, but they are down to metal so now they became important. I think I will go with your same set up on the back Top fuel Friday. I run some cross drilled rotors up front also with semi-metalic pads, I know I can not machine them and am hoping that my vibration when stoping is from the back, you all think the back would cause that in my steering wheel. I will find out any way about three today. Also Top fuel isnt oem brakes ceramic and with slotted rotors would you have to run semi metalic? Edit: Never mind I learned it is organic that is to hard and not recomended. The semi and ceramic are good and not gonna eat them up.

thickness specs for rotors on GT's:

front
nominal 1.024
discard .974

rear
nominal .551
discard .504

and yes, factory are ceramic(according to my system)

I dont know if any of you have done that back brakes but, this was my first. Wow wish I would have known about the special tool to compress the piston on the caliper. In my manuel (hines) it said you could use the tool or a pair of needle nose pliers. I could not figure out how they where using the needle noses to spin and compress and the same time. After calling the ford dealership I decided to use a pair of chanel locks to grab ahold of it and spin clockwise( being carefull not to rip the boot) and a c clamp to keep presure on it. Which worked out just fine. After it is conpressed, You have to be sure to aline the groves parallel to the slot in the caliper. It all bolted up fine after that and not a squeak rattle or pull.

if anything i would think the metallic would eat the rotors faster because the pad is a harder pad compound. i would go ceramic with drilled or slotted rotors.

compressing the rears with a C-clamp can ruin the calipers. the proper tool for it is about $60 or so, you could probably rent it from autozone or something too.