Not sure if this is where this goes, but I didn't see another section that fit it any better so I'm throwing it in here.

I'm about to get back the first car I ever owned, a 1988 Ford Mustang 2.3L auto LX hatch. It'll be a project car and it will be a slow build from the ground up, and I want to know my possibilities.

I want a V8/manual combo in it, and it will have to be fuel injected. What I need to know is how feasible is this swap, and what transmissions are available. Seems like I've heard some Mustang guys are running T-56 transmissions, what is involved in getting one of those in or would I be better off with a beefed up T-5?

Right now for the motor I'm thinking of using a built 302, probably stoke it out to a 347 with plans of a blower going on later as well. Do any aftermarket companies (like Painless) make a full harness so I dont have to deal with the hassle of salvaging one out of an old 5.0?

The car itself has some sentimental value in that it was the first car I ever owned so selling it and picking up a 5.0 to start with isn't an option. Just need to know where I'm headed and what I'm getting myself into.

if youre gonna use a 347 id suggest something a bit stronger than a t5. its a very feasible porject and has been done hundreds of times. the 4 cylinder cars seem to have the best stock suspension for drag racing too. you can get HO 302's cheap as all hell. im sure youll be able to get the ecu/harness/maf with the motor:)

Might as well do a T-56 :devil:

I'd love to have a T-56. That is the plan if it will work, which I believe I've seen it work before, but it's been years since I've looked at Mustang stuff.

Thanks for the encouragement Wnts, definitely want to build a stroked and blown car just for heritage's sake (the Mustang is an American icon, and stroked and blown cars are just old-school cool). The Trans Am is my real "track" car if you can call it that. I just want to build the Mustang as a tribute to my mom and just make it a nice all-around street/strip car. It was her car and I got it when she passed.

This is one of the most straight forward engine swaps of all time. Everything bolts in and plugs in. Just get the various V8 parts and drop them in:
1. K-member
2. Double-hump trans crossmember so you can run dual exhaust
3. Engine wiring harness
4. PCM

I've done this project on my wife's 91. We used all factory wiring from v8 cars so by looking at it, you cannot tell it was ever a 4cyl car. Everything that is v8 specific was put on the car.

No need to swap K members. The 88 4cyl K is the same as the V8. You will need v8 specific motor mounts however. Also, you will need new fuel lines, as the 4cyl run up the drivers side of the car (vs pass side on v8). The rear brake hardline is different as well and the 4cyl rear brake softline can easily be burned by v8 tailpipes b/c of this.

I would also upgrade the rearend to an 8.8 eventually, put a beefy trans (if you're going to have a stout motor), and use a v8 driveshaft.

Interior wise, you'll need a v8 cluster.

IMO, get a wreck v8 car as a donor. I look back and wish we had done so b/c we could have got the car done a LOT faster. It took us forever b/c we were always missing/needing one thing or another.

Good info fellas, thanks a ton for the input and ideas. A V8 donor car wouldnt be a bad idea even though I want to replace quite a bit of the car with aftermarket stuff. I could always scavenge what I need off the wrecked V8 car (which shouldnt be hard to find for dirt cheap) and haul the rest to a junkyard when I'm finished.

Exactly.

Great thread, I'm going to do the same thing to my 90 notch 2.3L, except I'll be doing a stalled auto.

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=764330&highlight=cylinder+swap

http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/v8/v8.htm

Great links, you are the man. :)

A 2.3 turbo would be a nice setup, and you can put down some impressive numbers, and have something different from the average Fox, just a lil input :D

I have decided that I'm going 2.3T, less brain damage, less expense. :)

Really? I've had more trouble finding well priced 2.3L parts than I have 5.0 parts, not to mention used 5.0 parts are everywhere while 2.3L parts are few and far between. I do like the concept of a nice little turbo four cylinder setup but it seems like more of a hassle than it's worth.

replace the rear end, full suspension, transmission, ECU, wiring, k-member, tranny cross member, DONT use a T5, it will break like a twig behind a 347, oy, there is a TON of work needed. I did a 302 to 302 crate motor and AOD to TKO500 swap (well, had it done) and it took a good ling while, my cousin did it in his shop and she took forever. lol.

Really? I've had more trouble finding well priced 2.3L parts than I have 5.0 parts, not to mention used 5.0 parts are everywhere while 2.3L parts are few and far between. I do like the concept of a nice little turbo four cylinder setup but it seems like more of a hassle than it's worth.

Turbo coupe motors are readily available for $150-500 and are totally plug and play with our cars so long as you have the a compatible harness. Check out my thread in the FI section, there are some great links. I have already found the motor I am going to buy. :)

I'll have to see what the 2.3T motors are putting down and how much parts would cost to replace and what the power possibilities are. I want a nice street car that will pass emissions and that can make some good power (able to trap around 115-120mph in the 1/4 mile).

http://www.turboford.net/faq/mods.shtml
Recommended Modifications
So you're ready to go faster? Here's what we recommend (in approximate bang-for-the-buck and ease-of-installation order):
Stage 0:
Get the car running right, put decent tires on it, and take it to the strip and get some baseline numbers for it!

At sea level, a 200hp version of the 2.3T in a 3300lb car should run a low 15/high 14, and a 175hp version should run a low-mid 15. These times assume decent (but not spectacular) traction and driving.
Stage 1:
Disconnect the knock sensor FREE
K&N Air filter/no air box $30-$50
Adjustable boost $5-$500

At first glance, disconnecting the knock sensor would seem nuts. BUT, the knock sensor is easily fooled by non-detonation noises into pulling out timing when it shouldn't, and it takes out way too much. People generally run about 3 tenths faster when they disconnect it...you gotta use your brain to avoid detonation and broken parts.

Turn up boost till the overboost buzzer just comes on, this is about 17.5 psi OR set it wherever you want (Air/fuel meter highly recommended) ;-).

The best number I've heard of so far for an SVO at this stage was an 86 that ran a 13.75 on slicks. This was posted by a list member a while back.
Stage 2:

Big exhaust $200-$1000
Engle 55 or Ranger roller cam $150
Tbird Intercooler $50-$100
Optional, save your money for a serious one if you're going to go farther than stage 2
Late model computer and injectors for early model owners $400?
You can also Superchip an early model computer to make it the same as a late model computer.

When a new computer or chip becomes a requirement for early model owners will depend on a lot of things, but generally, if you're running 95mph or more in the quarter mile in a stock weight SVO (~230hp), it's probably about time. For some people this may happen before the cam change. You probably want the computer you buy to be from an intercooled car (late SVO, or late Tbird TurboCoupe). The computer mapping was different for inter-cooled versus non-intercooled applications. Late model owners (single fuel pump) may also want to consider going to a higher flow fuel pump at about this point. The early model double-pump system should be OK for most applications. If you're going to use nitrous at some point, go all out on the fuel pump(s).

At this point, you should have gained at least 5 or 6 mph, and half a second off your baseline time. Typical gains would be closer to a full second, if for no other reason than that you should be getting to be a pretty good driver by now ;-).
Stage 3:

Good intercooler $250-$1250
The intercooler is the most important power production part in a turbo motor. The only reason the parts listed above were listed first is because they can be done cheaply, and a good intercooler can not, unless you find a really good deal on a used one or fabricate one yourself.

Stage 4:
High flow turbo $600-$1500
Ported late model exhaust manifold or header FREE-$500
Stage 5:

Ported head/big valves/maybe bigger cam FREE-$2000
Ported intake manifold FREE - $500
The early and late model intake manfolds flow similarly, but the late model is better if you want to use the stock knock sensor system.

If you're the "money is no object" type, the aluminum head and a matching manifold from Esslinger are better than all the porting in the world on the stock parts. If you're going to end up buying them anyway, there's no point in spending a lot of money on the stock parts first. If you're good, you may be able to approach 90% of the performance for a lot less money, though.
Stage 6:
Parts exist to do an aluminum head 3 liter 8000RPM stroker motor if you want to go nuts. This will require more fuel than the stock 86 system can provide. Currently you're on your own for such things... BIG BUCKS!

Other things like underdrive pulleys ($50) and cam timing pulleys ($50-$100) can be played with as desired. Prices vary depending on the deals you find, and how much of the work you can/will do yourself. There's always nitrous for those who are inclined to deal with it, and to take the necessary precautions.

Results will vary, but 13s in the mid 90s can be run on the 30# injectors, and 12s at a few mph over 100 can be run on the 36s, both without nitrous. With nitrous and some creativity, a lot more is possible.

Here you go.